Today we went on a tour of Rocinha, (Hossinya), the biggest favella in South America (oh my god we're in South America!).
Everyone living in the favella could be asked to move on at any time, the whole thing's illegal. The reason they're not isn't because they've been there for 100 years, but because there's nowhere else for 1000's of people to go.
There's a small number of houses with electricity and water, but mainly the power lines are tapped (amazing huge knots and tangles of wires everywhere, hanging low over the winding narrow streets)
And there are a few taps in the sewerage channels for people to come and collect water.
The whole thing expands several km a year as the city's growing fast in population, and the accomodation can't keep up (and nor can the money)
We were taken up to the top of the favella in a crazy loco motorbike ride up busy winding steep streets- I must admit I was nearly scared and squeezed my driver with my knees a bit, worrying they were going to hit other overtaking bikes or buses or people.
We saw at the top that things were more expensive as they had to be carried but there are shops and thingts, barbers, grocers- money in the favella stays in the favella. Many people living there will go to work in the rich areas surrounding it, where there is money to throw away, and come home to live in the favella.
The opnly money that is really made in the favella is by people carrying things up, and selling them, apart from drugs- which is the only money going out, and leaves only drugs inside.
The people are friendly and happy to see tourists, as they know we are bringing money into the area - a few kids try and sell pretty things, we have paid the motorbike taxis, and there are some shops.
Crime rates in the actual favella are very low- everyone there knows they're in the same boat, ther's no point stealing anything and it's a close knit community too.
The ones with guns are the people protecting the drug dealers from the police, or gang members who control the properties.
The only time there's any trouble is when rtival gangs try and come in from other favellas, or when the police come in to find trouble.
This used to be announced by kites as a warning, but now everyone plays with kites all the time and fireworks announce a police raid.
We saw some chickens around the place, scrawny things picking at rubbish, lots of dogs, independent kids. Everyone seemed happy.
Loads of stuff, including bits of houses, were made of rubbish- a porch made from tins, an armchair made from plastic bottles all strapped together. 2 teenagers with brilliant rhythm played us some beats on a bucket and a tin, amazing sound on those battered old things, amazing faces and lovely samba-y tunes, laughing. :D
A proud man with such curly hair brought out his bushy weed plant and posed by it to have his photo taken.
It was not as 'bad' as I'd expected, but I feel horrid fore saying that. In fact is quite a lovely community!
So... when we heard about the party going on in a smaller favella, we were really keen!
Later on there was a capoeira show going on in the bamboo bar in the hostel in the evening, and after getting our 3rd free drink (and counting) we sat dfown to watch the group of tiny kids and some older folk too.
WOW thewy were amazing! So so so fast and good! The kids, and the older ones (teaschers) too. We tried to take some poictures, but apart from some funny poses they moved too fast and you just see a load of open mouthed faces with a blur in front!
When they'd shown us they're best tricks, they asked if anyone wanted to join in- some boys went and showed off, and were generally put to the floor (ever so gently).
Someone came and tried to get me to have a go, I said 'no, no no, definately not, i can't' like you do (like I do anyway), but he picked me up and carried me!
I waited my turn shaking a bit then he just said *copy me*
and it was fine! it was really fun!
It helped that he was so brilliant at it, so when I missed a beat he instantly changed to go with it...
At the end he flipped me right over backwards!
I was so exhilerated and glad he got me to do it, I want to do it again!
Rose had a go too, and managed very well especially considering she was in a skirt!
When we*d done that we were buzzing and really excited, so the idea of not going to the party was just silly...
We did wonder for a bit because we*ve spent quite a lot of money bla bla bla... but decided to go anyway.
Tuesday, 20 January 2009
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Girls, it seems you are having a great time. I am so jealous, I just came back from there, but I didn't have this fun.... I should have gone with you, eheheh. Beijos. Dutchy
ReplyDeleteHi, I'm loving your beautifully written and fun blog! Take good care of your sweet selves. Love love love, Cate xxxxxxx
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